
You only showed rotating the reference marks rotated out. Thank you for a great idea, I will be having a go myself. Holding the oiled board up to the camera would have allowed a much better view. I believe it makes an amazing pattern and I could almost see it. I find that is invaluable for those bulky and ‘dicey’ crosscuts. I’m surprised you didn’t show off using the sliding crosscut table you have installed there. You seem to have some sapwood left on the two outside rips. This eliminates tear out and is a lot quicker than sanding. When I make an end grain board I glue an additional 5-6″ sacrificial board on each end, plane them flat, and then cut off the sacrificial section. They can explode in dramatic fashion and cause kickback as well as damage to the planer. It is dangerous to run end grain glue ups through a planer. Why not use the planer for the final flattening? Also, the finish was too dark to see well in the video. Δ 19 Responses to “Single-Slab End Grain Cutting Board: Step-by-Step Guide”

Titebond III is a great choice for cutting boards. A good blade will leave your end grain cuts smooth, which means less sanding on the cutting board. When you crosscut the slab, you’ll save a lot of sanding time by using a good-quality crosscut blade now.

Maple, walnut, and cherry (and many other hardwoods) are good choices. For example, red oak is a bad cutting board choice because of its porosity. It’s best to use close-grained hardwoods for any cutting board.


The result is visually striking! You’ll have a cutting board that’s FULL of end grain bookmatches. Instead of using a bunch of different hardwood species, the entire end grain cutting board is made from one slab of wood. We’re going to do things a little differently on this project. That mix gives you kind of a checkerboard pattern of colors when the cutting board is complete. They are typically made from various hardwoods like walnut, maple, and cherry. You’ve seen, and maybe made, end grain cutting boards.
